29 June, 2007

Victory is ours

She started, got out of the garage, and backed back in. She was smoky, and smelled like diesel. We did have to use some starter fluid. I think the trick was pushing the gear shift into park. That one let it turn over. It ran good, and got a lot of cobwebs out. We did get one of the back tires off, and replaced it with a wheel done at Discount Tire.
There's still some work to do on the doors, and some examination of lighting. The blowers for the AC worked. .

This is the underside of the windshield wiper. I think I can remove the ball headed bolt, and maybve get a snap ring underneath the fixture. I talked to another location today, and they wanted $89 for it. Stupid.

This was the engine well. Had the old shop vac in there, to get all of the glass out. It did well.

This dent in the hood needs bondo, like the bullet hole in the trunk.

This is the passenger door. Uugh. Needs lots of work.

Victory of sorts

Well, last night we had a victory, of sorts. We actually got the engine to turn over. I thought it had something to do with the seat belt. I think now it is to do with the after-market alarm switch that is in the car. I think I depressed the switch on the underneath of the steering column to get it started. I'll get Charles to try that out. ANyway, we had the car starting, and thought it was out of fuel. We left, and went to a convenience store that had diesel. COming back, the engine would not even turn over.

I also sprayed WD-40 on the piece that will need to come off for the windshield wiper assembly. I got an estimate yesterday of $700 for that assembly. The ball joint is not sold separately. I guess I'll try my hand at engineering a new fixture.

25 June, 2007


Well, this past weekend we got tires. There was a birthday involved. Imagine receving tires for your birthday, but that's what was involved. One was mounted, and the others need to be done. Also got the R&R switch out. I don't know why it is called the R&R switch, but we got the steering wheel out, as well as the lower panel.

We also got the starter motor to turn over. I think we need a new ignition switch. I'll pull the old one out to see if it can be refurbished. I think I can find instructions.

Here's a few pictures.

This door has some repair work to be done. We've gotten the windshield out, and we have the Mercedes shop manual, which has come in handy. It is just scanned pages, but it is handier than the Haynes manual. I have not seen a Haynes manual for the 126 series Mercedes of that vintage. This door does not close properly. It did at first, but the door got bent back when pushing into the garage. We did get the oil changed this weekend. 8 quarts of 15W40, and a new air filter inthe turbocharger. Next is to troubleshoot the ignition switch.

14 June, 2007

Plans for tonight

We didn't get to do anything last night, as it was raining. Since it was raining, we couldn't open the garage. I also did not feel well after an entire day in a budget planning meeting at my day job. So, tonight we will crank it up and get it up on jack stands. This will help. The son is picking up other jobs here and there, and will be able to help with expenses. We did get a battery the other night, but we will need to get a battery tray. We're picking up a little momentum on parts locating. We're finding different stops for different items that we need. The most unbelievable part thus uncovered as far as expense is the right rear vent window. It costs as much if not more than the front windshield. Don’t know why. I guess we will get a little cardboard, and make a template, then put in some Plexiglas or laminated glass.

13 June, 2007

Dry Ice for shrinking dents

Ice Express

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Last night's activity

Well, last night we installed a battery. The battery tray is a bit rusted out, but we got it in so we can start diagnosing electrical situations. I also used some compressed air to get dents out, using the heat gun at first, and it is actually working. We'll get video tonight.


We'll use this reference article tonight, to try to get Bonnie to turn over.

Starter Troubleshooting
This seems to be a much-requested procedure, so I've added it to my list of technical articles.
The situation here is that your car won't start. You turn the key to start, and you get nothing. This procedure is only for those times when the starter doesn't even try to crank the engine. You turn the key and you get nothing or maybe a click and some dimming of the idiot lights.
Here's the troubleshooting procedure for you.
Your first goal is to determine the state of charge of your battery. Turn your headlights on and see how bright they are. If they are of normal brightness then you are probably OK. If you have a voltmeter, put it across the terminals of the battery. A fully charged battery will read around 12.5 volts, a dead battery will be less than say 11.8 volts. If your battery is dead, charge it and then proceed to the next step.
Next you want to find out if your ignition switch is sending power to the solenoid. A preliminary check for this is if your idiot lights dim when you turn the key to start, that's a good indicator that the ignition switch is functioning properly. To check for sure, get under the car and disconnect from the solenoid the wire that comes from the ignition switch. It connects to a push-on spade connector on the solenoid. Fuel-injected cars have two spade connectors on the solenoid. In that case, the ignition switch wire will be the heavier of the two wires. Disconnect the wire, then use your voltmeter to check for 12v at that wire. Put the positive lead to the wire and ground the negative lead, then have your helper turn the key to start. When your helper does this, you should read 12v at the wire. If not, suspect a defective ignition switch or a break in the wiring (or disconnected) wire between the battery and ignition switch or ignition switch and starter. Repair and try again. If you do have power at that wire, move on to the next step.
Next you want to see if the problem lies in the starter motor itself. Looking at the back of the solenoid, you will see two big post electrical connectors. What you want to do here (TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!) is grab a big screwdriver or a pair of insulated pliers. Touch only the plastic or rubber handle. You want to take this tool and short across the two big post terminals. Be prepared for some sparks, but hold the tool up there until you make a good connection. What you are doing here is connecting the battery directly to the starter motor, WITHOUT engaging the solenoid. So what should happen is that the starter motor will spin but will not crank the engine. It should sound like a regular electric motor, no gravelly or strange noises. If it does not spin or sounds really bad, have it rebuilt. If it works like it's supposed to, the motor is good so move on to the next step.
OK, you're now starting to run out of possible problems! The next test is to see if the solenoid is working. Here's how this goes. First, TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!. Look at the back of the solenoid. There are the two big post terminals you just played with. Look at the one on the right. You will see that there is simply a short heavy braided wire attached to it that runs down into the starter motor. What you want to do here is spike the positive lead of your voltmeter into this braided wire and ground the negative lead. Then have your helper turn the key to start. When your helper does this, you should hear a clunk and measure 12v with your voltmeter (additionally, the engine should be cranking as this happens). If you do not measure 12v, your solenoid is not activating and is not sending power to the starter motor. I had a case on my van where the solenoid would clunk but I was only measuring 1.5 volts at that braided wire, and the starter motor was not turning. I had the solenoid rebuilt at a shop and that solved the problem.
What you can also do to further test the solenoid is to remove the wire from the ignition switch from the solenoid. TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL -- PARKING BRAKE ON!!!!!!!. Take your screwdriver or insulated pliers and short the big post with all the wires to it to the terminal on the solenoid where the ignition switch wire plugged in. This will bypass the ignition switch and send full battery current directly to the solenoid. This should make the solenoid kick in and the engine should crank. If it cranks this way but not when you do the test in the paragraph above, then your solenoid works but it's either sticky or you have a big voltage drop when going through the ignition switch, possibly a dead ignition switch. The preceding parts of this test should have identified a bad ignition switch already, so if you've gotten this far and it works when you short the solenoid directly to battery power, you likely just have an old stick solenoid that needs a lot more current to activate than it's getting from the ignition switch. See below for your options.
If you do not measure 12v at the braided wire as above, then there are two possible situations. First is that you have the famous VW hot-start sticky solenoid problem. What you should do (and I recommend this as a first remedy to anyone who is experiencing the above problem) is to wire a relay into the circuit. The circuit is already marginal due to the lack of a relay from the factory and the long wiring path. Age and temperature of the wires serves to further degrade the situation. You can wire a relay into the system and starting reliability will be greatly improved. See my relay installation article for instructions.
If, after wiring in the relay, your situation does not improve, then you have to face the music -- your solenoid is toast. Remove the starter and have the solenoid rebuilt -- if your starter motor tests fine and you are short on cash, you may wish to just have the solenoid rebuilt, as I did. I took it to a local automotive electrical rebuilder and that solved my problem. Or you can go whole hog and exchange your starter/solenoid assembly for a rebuilt model bought at a parts store. This, however, can be quite expensive.
And that should do it, that's a fairly good troubleshooting procedure that ought to tell you where you stand and what you need to fix.
Sean BartnikApril 6, 1998

11 June, 2007

The first night

Well, we got the drivers side door off, and the busted windshield out. There's a lot of glass al over, but also a lot of satisfaction. Video to follow.

10 June, 2007

One of the first repairs

This may be the first repair on Bonnie. This is a bullet hole in the trunk. We'll have to sand this one down, and fill with Bondo. It will be our first Bondo repair, but probably not our last.

The new blog

Please join my son and I as we begin our new adventure, in refurbishing a 1983 Mercedes 300SD Turbo. There's a lot we have to learn, and there will be a lot of frustration along the way. He has tentatively named it "Bonnie", in honor of the nurse Bonnie from "Pulp Fiction". We hope that we don't get hammered with any licensing fees, as, hey, we don't have a lot of money. All we can do is hope Quentin Tarantino will appreciate us respecting his artwork, and his inspiration. Other choices were, "Christine", which was heavily negged, and "Janice", after Janice Joplin. But, Bonnie seems to be the choice for now.
We found this car on Ebay, and picked it up in a field near Waller, TX. The tires are cut, the windshield is busted, but hey, we've got a clear title. Lots to do, and lots to buy.